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The Old Boathouse, Cotswold Water Park

DINNER by the lake. It sounded like an offer too good to miss...even though we were in mid-March's wild weather.

And it proved to be worth taking up the invitation.

The Old Boathouse at the Cotswold Water Park has been open for just over a month but the staff act like old hands at the restaurant game. They are attentive without being intrusive and take time out to explain dishes to you, should you have trouble deciding.

Not that that should happen. The menu has plenty to tempt and there are specials on offer too, but more of the food later.

Weather-permitting, you could be at the seaside as you sit on the outdoor terrace, by the lake, sipping your gin and tonic. It shouldn't take much imagination to dream yourself into some distant paradise should you be a visitor during the summer months.

My party's gin and tonics, by the way, were served with a slice of cucumber rather than the traditional twist of lemon. Sounds weird, tastes great.

And so, the menu. Dishes include moules mariniere (£6.50) or plum tomato, red onion and goat's cheese tarte tatin (£5.50) to start, followed by slow-roasted pork belly with a white bean and chorizo cassoulet (£12) or a traditional 10oz rib-eye steak given a kick with a Bloody Mary butter (£16.50) for main course.

Dishes suitable for vegetarians and coeliacs are on offer and, where possible, dishes can be adapted for special dietary requirements.

I decided on smoked salmon with potato blinis, poached egg and hollandaise sauce (£6.50) to start, followed by medallions of beef fillet with fondant potato, accompanied by a bean bundle and peppercorn sauce (£19).

The starter was excellent, but the main course was even better. Beautifully presented and perfectly-cooked, the beef melted on my tongue. And, despite its deceptively nouvelle cuisine size, it was enough to satisfy an appetite much larger than mine.

My friend had pan-fried chicken livers with wild mushrooms enriched by a port sauce to start. She can be a sticky customer, but pronounced the livers perfectly cooked and tender.

Her rib-eye steak with Bloody Mary butter was the spot on medium rare she asked for.

We had a vegetarian in our party and she found the options at the Old Boathouse creative. She chose mushroom rarebit to start, followed by aubergine and potato bake with a cherry tomato salsa and judged the lot delicious.

One of my fellow diners knew a French couple on another table who were very impressed with the cassoulet - high praise indeed.

Eat at...

The Old Boathouse

Cotswold Water Park

Tel: 01285 864111

Opening times: noon to 3.30pm for lunch, 6pm to 9pm(ish) for dinner. Sunday lunch, noon to 4pm

11:39am Monday 7th April 2008

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