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1:33pm Thursday 21st January 2010 in Eating Out By Will Frampton
The Bunch of Grapes, Silver Street, Bradford on Avon, BA15 1JY.
(01225) 863877
I was fortunate enough on Monday to time my dinner with the lively quiz night at the Bunch of Grapes, tucked away in a dark corner of Silver Street in Bradford on Avon.
The building itself apparently dates from the 17th century. It is cosy and old-fashioned inside, the walls decorated with a typical and pleasing array of junk.
It seems popular with younger people, although its local charms ought to appeal to the more seasoned as well.
The Grapes takes a democratic attitude to its quiz, with teams hosting on different nights, adding greatly to the welcoming atmosphere.
There are Young’s ales, and also the wonderfully tart Tribute ale from St Austell Brewery in Cornwall, with the usual mid-range lagers and average wines.
The menu consists of standard pub fare, lamb shank, scampi, toad in the hole, with novelties like steak and black pudding, averaging around £10 a dish.
But the real attraction is the page of pies, from which, following crispy onion rings and sweet chilli dip from over the bar, I chose.
The pie itself was a thing of beauty, as a pie should be. All too often a bowl of microwaved brown sludge, carelessly topped with a stale puff pastry ‘lid’.
On a previous visit the steak and ale startled me with a genuine tang, suggesting beer was actually involved in its genesis. A pie of mussels and mushrooms proved less successful but still a worthy effort.
This time, having parted with my £12.99, a sizeable platter packed with crunchy chips and vegetables, half covered by a steaming crown of golden brown shortcrust pastry, arrived at my table.
The steak and stilton pie should be filled with a comparatively light gravy, hugely rich as it is with the addition of the salty cheese. This was no disappointment. The flavour was strong but not too potent.
I found the meal ideally sized to leave room for more beer after, but a dedicated glutton might be disappointed by the lack of a proper starter or pudding.
The price still seems a little steep, but good food often means paying a bit extra. The Grapes is worth a visit for something a little different.
Bar open until midnight Sunday - Thursday, 1am Friday and Saturday.
Food served 6-10pm every evening.
Food served lunchtimes from Tuesday onwards, Sunday lunch 12-4pm.
No car park, parking available in town.
Our Eating Out is an independent review carried out by the Gazette without prior knowledge of the owners.
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