Tripping light fantastic at Longleat's winter wonderland of light

The lights at the safari park near Warminster made headlines last year with its 7,000 individual lanterns, 15km of silk used by 100 craftsmen from the village of Zigong in China's Sichuan province to create 20 different scenes.

Bigger and better is an overused phrase but is well deserved when you see this year’s 23,000 individual lanterns and more than 18km of silk, 20km of LED lighting and 76 tonnes of steel.

Who could fail to be wowed by a near life-size recreation of the 800-year-old Manfeilong pagoda made from 85,000 porcelain cups, bowls and plates, a 20-metre long floating imperial dragon boat and a giant blue and white tea set made up of 220,000 liquid filled glass phials?

Prepare to be dazzled at the Festival of Light at Longleat

There is also a 100-metre-long Chinese dragon, the war chariot from Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s terracotta army, a section of the Great Wall of China and part of the Silk Road.

Herds of illuminated safari park animals - many gently moving thanks to cunningly hidden motors - with Longleat House itself as a stunning backdrop are almost at arm’s reach and seemed to be as popular with camera-toting adults as the toddlers they dwarf during our visit.

Shoals of glowing fish in an underwater ocean setting have also been created, along with leaping dolphins and killer whales.

A scene from the Festival of Light at Longleat

Although we could have preceeded our visit to the festival, which is best seen as the light fades or in darkness, which isn't hard at this time of the year, by exploring Longleat’s 900-acres of ‘Capability’ Brown landscaped grounds we first went to the National Trust’s Stourhead estate, which is less than 15 minutes by car from the Bath Arms.

After choosing a cream tea in the cafe over the pasty, sandwiches or salads, we walked a circular route of a couple of miles around the grounds.

The hike up through the forest is well worth the effort but the famous follies can be seen by just sauntering around the lakes lined with trees, well known for their stunning displays of autumn colour but which look good at any time of the year.

Back at the gift shop we picked up a few Christmas presents before heading to Longleat.

After enjoying the stunning lights, the windy weather we’ve had to put up with having held off for the afternoon, there was a warm welcome at the Bath Arms, quite literally, as there was a roaring fire in the bar, which doubles as a reception area.

The staff are used to welcoming visitors fresh from Longleat so were expecting muddy shoes, although we’d changed out of our walking boots.

We were soon checked into the spacious Peacock Room, complete with peacock headboard and decorated lights, comfortable and colourful four-poster bed.

There is even a traditional rolltop bath, with shower, in the bathroom, below.

It wasn’t long before we were back in the bar supping a prosecco as we poured over the menu.

Being scallop fans we chose them served with a tangy, black pudding ‘soil’ and pickles.

Despite being a fan of wild mushroom risotto, which was on offer, I went for the Creedy Carver duck breast with chorizo-braised haricot blanc cassoulet, spiced roasted plums and red onion marmalade.

Avoiding the trap of being over salty, which can be a cassoulet problem, it was tasty with the duck perfectly cooked, the plums being an unusual feature - a dish which I’d happily order again.

My partner was pleased with her delicious bass fillet too, on top of bubble and squeak cake, buttered spinach and salsa verde.

For dessert I had the super apple and blackberry crumble with Blackmore Vale cream - yes, cream twice in one day - while my ice-cream fan partner gave the homemade ice creams and sorbets a thumbs up.

My partner had an excellent white rioja with her meal, followed by a vintage port, while I enjoyed the Wessex Brewery beers which were on tap.

We ate in the bar area rather than the restaurant and felt at home relaxing there after the meal.

The all-day dining hours at the Bath Arms of noon to 9pm, Sunday to Thursday, and noon to 9.30pm, Friday and Saturday, are a bonus for those who want to arrange something outside more conventional hours and are another indication of the imaginative approach at the pub.

Another treat was breakfast, served between 7.30am and 10am, Monday to Friday, and 8am- 10am, Saturday to Sunday.

I ordered cappucino in preference to the standard filter coffee and that proved a good choice.

There wasn’t an exceptional range of cereals but the scrambled egg and salmon, which is an extra £1.50 on the special rates, was delicious.

My partner went for the full English breakfast, which meant I sampled quite a bit of the excellent field mushroom.

With more on the menu which we want to try, we are both keen to return.

Fact panel

The Festival of Light runs alongside Longleat’s traditional Christmas celebrations which include Santa Trains, Giant Musical Christmas Tree, fairytale characters and an outdoor ice-skating rink and is open daily from December 11 to January 3, excluding Christmas Day. Longleat is near Warminster, BA12 7NW, and visit www.longleat.co.uk for more details.

The Bath Arms at Longleat, Horningsham, BA12 7LY can be contacted on 01985 844308/0844 815 0099, emailed at enquiries@batharms or visit www.batharms.co.uk

A special offer, including three-course dinner, breakfast and Longleat tickets, is available from £175 (classic room). See www.batharms.co.uk/offer/christmas-longleat/

The Bath Arms, Horningsham. Picture by Jancis Dawe

Stourhead garden is typically open from 9am-5pm, house 11am-3.30pm, restaurant, 9am-5pm and the shop from 10am-5pm. Last entry to the house is 30 minutes before closing with some rooms decorated for Christmas in December. The house is closed from Thursday, December 24, until Saturday, January 9. National Trust entry rates apply. More details at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/stourhead

Below, the entrance to Stourhead gardens