SHORTLY before the first lockdown began, which feels like a lifetime ago, I took a group to San Marco in Melksham. I believe it was a three-course midweek set menu for £10. This does sound outrageously cheap, so perhaps my memory is exaggerating, but it was definitely a stellar deal. I enjoyed the meal and told myself that we would be back often.

But next thing I knew San Marco was no more and I was disappointed. It felt like every time I passed, the restaurant was either shut up for refurbishment or having swapped names again.

San Marco is back to being Casa, first opened in 2014, and it felt like perhaps this is the final change for a while and it was safe to go back and be vulnerable to forming an attachment.

Knowing we wouldn’t be able to make it until late on Sunday, I tried booking a table in advance for 8.45pm on their online booking system with a note that if they didn’t have other tables to tell us as we wouldn’t want to keep them open. The confirmation promised in the auto-response never came, so after a call at 8.30 to check on the booking- when we were warned to get our order in by 9pm - we rushed off.

The reception my husband and I received upon arrival however was relaxed and welcoming and seeing a number of other tables filled despite the late hour and uninspiring weather set us at ease. Still, I chose off the menu unusually rapidly to be sure.

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Given the appearance of a full bar, the cocktail menu seemed surprisingly limited, but I did very much enjoy my sweet peach puree and prosecco bellini. Meanwhile my husband chose the southern Italian craft lager on tap.

Looking around after our order was safely put in, I asked if he could notice anything obviously different about the interior since the multiple changes in branding. Neither of us really felt that the mood had significantly shifted.

For his starter, Jake had crisp deep-fried breaded mushrooms which managed to avoid being oily, he tells me, with home-made garlic and herb aioli. My starter - smoked salmon on ciabatta with radishes, dill, lemon juice and cucumber flowers, also featured the deliciously light aioli.

We were both happy with our choices, although the salmon was quite salty so I was ready for another refreshing drink. I chose the slightly less sweet Italian sunset mocktail with orange juice, soda water and a dash of grenadine, which really hit the spot.

Admittedly I was very unadventurous and chose spaghetti bolognese as my main - but I would argue it is rather essential an Italian restaurant can do it well. And indeed it was as rich and satisfying as it ought to be. Jake also enjoyed his crispy diavola pizza with pepperoni, nduja, mascarpone, rocket and garlic oil.

Casa has all the little touches of a proper Italian restaurant - from the oversized pepper grinder and bowl of parmesan offered - to the complimentary limoncello digestif presented alongside mint chocolates with your bill.

Sadly, we were too late to order a dessert, which really makes or breaks a meal out for me, leaving me somewhat on the fence about this one. It was enjoyable enough, but nothing extraordinary for the £61 price tag. I reserve the right to reassess, should I go again and be blown away by the dessert menu.